Backpacking through Kerala's most magical tradition - Theyyam.

I remember just doomscrolling through Instagram when I randomly landed upon photographs from @hedgearun and @navaneeth_unnikrishnan which piqued my interest because wow the visuals were good, I too wanted such photographs and experience something that I have never even heard of before. I am a strong believer that experiences do make us and something that fascinates me I definitely add it to my list.

After a looot of texting back and forth I found a local guy @kiranlm which then helped me make my decision to book the tickets. From Pune it was a train to Madgaon and the next train was until Kannur. Watching the Kerala greens from the train windows has always felt me wanting more of it. Finally after a short break in Kannur, enjoying the beautiful murals on the railway station and drinking the famous Kannur Cocktail right across, I took on a local bus which then finally dropped me at Payyannur (About 40 kms from Kannur). I never in my life had even googled or known the name of this town but this exact feeling has always gave me the thrills while travelling. As usual walked to my room (No hostels back then, not sure if there are now) and chilled around for the day, had local food, some local conversations and knowing more about what the small town was all about.

For me Payyannur was a small town with simple people but busy streets full of people and traffic. The main road was always busy and too many shops lined up along the narrow main road. But, as we go west, it had a complete opposite vibe which I did experience the very next day.

It was time to focus on what really brought me there - Kandanar Kelan, a Theyyam which is practiced on a huge fire. Honestly I just wanted great visuals, nothing more - but little did I knew what awaits. This particular Theyyam was happening throughout the night a few kms from my hotel. These rituals mostly take place near temples and sometimes the rare ones happen in the courtyard of the important family names in those particular areas. This was one such case. I reached the place around 5 or 6 pm, people started gathering, lights and diyas were lit and drums were making their entrance with men wearing white lungi. As the night arrived, I could feel the shift in the energy. Along this huge rectangular courtyard was this pretty square temple with red tiles temple and people were packed on all three sides. On the fourth side were the men who were going to perform the ritual. They started with their intense makeup, adorning the gears and getting into the trance. I had no time to process what actually was going to happen.

For the first half of the night, the 'God' was dancing around and telling stories which although I didn't understand... Was enjoying the newness it had brought to me . You can see in the picture how uniquely they dress and carry themselves along with the orange makeup, which helps them from the heat by the way.

After a few hours of shooting we went back, slept for a few hours, woke up again around 3 am and returned. When I returned the number of people had at least doubled. Many photographers from all over India were there. Some were working on a documentary, others had some ongoing project. And me just there out of curiosity...sometimes I think my curiosity should have a direction too. Anyways, coming to the main event, the lights suddenly went out and out of nowhere a huge fire was lit. Trust me it was huge, around 7 ft. The heat was too much honestly, I had to get up and change my location as I was getting burns. For a minute I observed the chaos that was unraveling itself. The energy change in the air was so sudden that I couldn't fathom that it is already starting, the moment that I came for, travelled for days and waited for hours. The fire was burning high and bright on the right and here on my near left I see men holding 'Kelan' (the guy who plays the god named Kelan). He was in his trance ready to pounce through the fire. Suddenly everyone started shouting and there I saw two guys holding Kelan and jumping through the 7 ft tall flames.

It wasn't over, they did it multiple times! At one point the God just ran and stood in between the fire until the men grabbed him and pulled him out. My eyes were just so fixed on what was happening that I forgot where was I, what was I doing there, what the hell was happening in front. I was lost for those 15 mins-20 mins. I still remember saying this to myself, "It feels like I watched a movie". (Btw if you want to read more about the ritual here's another blog written by me specifically on this Theyyam https://www.omkaryadawad.com/post/when-god-dances-through-fire-kandanar-kelan-theyyam)

Soon it wasn't dark anymore and it felt like everything is wrapping up. It's funny even if you don't understand the language you still can feel what's happening around you. And then it was time for me and Kiran to catch up on some other place. He drove me to Kannur where the Theyyams happened in the fresh morning light around about 6 or 7 am. Attaching a couple pictures from there. Honestly it made me feel calm among the greens after watching something so intense. After being there for about a couple hours it was time to say goodbye to Kiran. I am so grateful because if not for him, this would had not been possible because the information about particular Theyyams and their location is really hard to find. So I would strongly suggest making a local connection first. Ab Kiran ko tata bolke, I took a bus to Payyannur to have my long lost sleep.

After the night and early morning shoot, I decided to explore the town a bit. Until now I already had a repo set with a guy who sells watermelon (yellow on the inside), a general store uncle, bhurji wale uncle, hostel guy and as always this small routine helped me in absorbing the town. As I always watch the places I visit from google maps (easier to memorize the geography for me) - I always knew about the backwaters and thus found out about the kayaking that happens there. Today was the day I was gonna do it. When I sat in the rickshaw it was a town, rushed with people, vehicles, all types of shops and sounds, within the next 15 mins I was almost in a completely different world. I could see just two roads stretching on the right and one still straight across the waters. Tall coconut trees on both the sides and a really cute cafe at the corner. After having some food there met the kayak place which I could already see just across. I could see this wide expanse of water, mangroves in the distance and such calmness all around. Kerala backwaters are something else. Then I also saw a white jellyfish cutely just floating on the surface, my first!

Next thing I was on a kayak, with no life jacket?! (I didn't knew how to swim yet). But then I just went, not thinking otherwise. I was paddling alone in the Kavvai Kayal backwaters. All in control just racing towards the mangroves with a huge smile on my face and listening to the traditional music being played somewhere on the land. Once I reached, I could see a few more people walking in the waters. I too went inside and left my kayak watching the trees in much awe.

Walked through the cute mangroves when a guy randomly approached me saying, he clicked my pictures while I was kayaking and thus we connected. Then I started my way back with my red kayak and a fisherman waved at me with such a genuine smile while I was taking his picture. These energies make me continue doing what I do, because I don't understand what's life beyond these simple genuine emotions and expressions. I wish life could be that simple.

Anyways after coming back to my room I got ready for another long night - a Theyyam festival which was happening in the town after 28 years! And I was there to visit it! What luck man. A local told me, it actually happens after every 25 years but due to covid the dates got pushed. Not going into much details about it but the festival was inside the whole big open courtyard of an important temple and everything was decorated with colorful lights. Throughout the night I experienced a few more Theyyam and this time got to get a nice look at everything clearly. Met a guy from New Zealand who was also capturing the festival so we tagged along till the very morning. One really interesting this I saw was, the Muslims residents there were welcomed in the temple where they performed a dance. This itself was really new for me and spoke a lot about the religious sentiment of the town. I am sure it's way complex than it looked but still. Anyways at around 6:30 am I realized I need to go as it was my last day there. Had the yellow watermelon, killed my time in a mall (free AC) and then packed my bag for my bus back to Goa.

I remember planning this trip just so I could get a good couple pictures of Kandanar Kelan, but I got back with so much more wisdom about the tradition, the place, it's people and their connection to the festival. A town which I never knew existed has today given me archives which I have hung up here in a gallery in Prague where I am currently ending this blog. Who knew.

Thankyou for reading. Will meet you in Jibhi, my next blog :)